| Author |
Message |
    
nova87
Citizen
Username: Nova87
Post Number: 237
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, August 7, 2003 - 8:38 am: |     |
I've read differing opinions on whether to use a plastic vapor barrier on my basement walls. Some articles say that if you do use plastic the vapor will condense on the plastic and slowly drip down an form a puddle on your floor. Other articles say that its a neccessity.
Which is correct? And if I do go with plastic what can I use? Do I use the same type of plastic that you would use as a drop cloth?
Or should I go with styrofoam insulation? |
peteglider
Citizen
Username: Peteglider
Post Number: 198
Registered: 8-2002
| | Posted on Thursday, August 7, 2003 - 1:02 pm: | |
vapor barrier towards the finished side (heated and cooled areas)
plastic is fine as a vapor barrier. a tip -- use the styrofoam or other "hard" insulation at the bottom of each wall cavity (maybe bottom 12 or 16" -- depends on the size of the materials you use), fiberglas above. if you have water in your basement -- it won't wick up into the wall, the drying out and repair process will be much easier!
Pete |
nova87
Citizen
Username: Nova87
Post Number: 238
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, August 7, 2003 - 3:25 pm: | |
Pete,
Thanks. Should I just use insulation with a vapor barrier already included? We plan on painting the seeping portions of the wall with a special paint - similar to Drylock but supposedly better. That's really all the water we get and its only in one corner of the basement. Upon further inspection the downspout on that corner of the house looks like it needs to extend out a little further away from the foundation.
I think I had read your comment about fiberglas above and the styro below on another thread.
|
bobk
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 3272
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, August 7, 2003 - 3:53 pm: | |
I read an article in a older issue of Family Handyman that suggests not using a vapor barrier because you will trap moisture between the basement concrete block wall and the stud wall you are going to put up. The article does state that different people do this differently.
Even the driest basement gets some moisture through the walls and it appears you have a minor water problem to start with.
I will try to find the article and post more information this evening. |
bobk
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 3274
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, August 8, 2003 - 4:11 am: | |
The article was in the July/August 2001 issue. Possibly the library has a copy.
Their suggestion was to use styrofoam against the actual wall and build a stud wall with unfaced insulation.
Good luck!! |
Redsox
Citizen
Username: Redsox
Post Number: 306
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Friday, August 8, 2003 - 10:05 am: | |
be wary of styro- gives of intense toxic fumes when burnt-
i personally would not use at perimeter interior walls, even with sheetrock covering up the styro. |
nova87
Citizen
Username: Nova87
Post Number: 245
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Friday, August 8, 2003 - 3:20 pm: | |
Just finished washing the walls down with muriatic acid. Reminded me of the days I worked at the nuke plant dressed in rain gear, goggles respirator. Man is it muggy and I just made it worse by hosing down the walls. One more hosing down and it will be ready to paint with waterproofing stuff.
Redsox - how would you insulate the walls then? The problem, as pete indicated above, is that fiberglas will allow water (to the extent there is any, to wick up and possibly ruin the sheetrock. |
Redsox
Citizen
Username: Redsox
Post Number: 309
Registered: 6-2002
| | Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 3:10 pm: | |
nova,
if your worried about water wicking-
you can run a 4" rip of cement board @ the bottom of the wall- will be covered by base molding. |
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