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themp
Citizen
Username: Themp
Post Number: 139
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Monday, August 18, 2003 - 11:00 pm: |     |
Our second floor was panelled during the 1960's, and the original wide trim was removed (why they wanted to work so hard to make the place so ugly is a mystery of fashion and changing tastes). We are having the panellling taken out, and I am trying to decide whether we should put drywall up over the very damaged plaster, or get it repaired. I took down the panelling myself in the kitchen, and did the plaster repairs myself, and it took me a long time, and more than 10 gallons of joint compound.
Contractors tend to say drywall over it, especially since there is no trim to worry about, and it is easy for them to price drywalling in their head. Is it worth my while to locate someone who does plaster repair, and consider having the walls fixed the old fashioned way? Or should I have someone slap up 3/8 drywall? |
nova87
Citizen
Username: Nova87
Post Number: 257
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 9:16 am: | |
Themp, I've done both. Downstairs we found a contractor who put a new skimcoat on the walls to cover up old, cracking paint. It was a pretty involved process of removing any loose flakey paint and plaster. Then putting a 1/8th inch coat of plaster and inlaying a fiberglas mesh for strentgh. All of that was covered with a topcoat and then the rough spots were sanded. We had the ceiling and all four walls of our living room and the three walls of our dining room done. The living room is about 24 x 14 and the dining room is about 14 x 14. Total cost was around $4K.
Upstairs in our house we have been gutting everything down to the studs and replacing with sheetrock. Very messy.
The advantages of the former are that you retain the original character of the house and it is gauranteed not to crack. The obvious downside is the cost. You will also need to extend all of your electrical boxes as your walls are another 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. If your moulding is not very thick there is a chance that your moulding will be flush with the walls (not very likely).
The advantage to the latter is the cost, once you have the walls open you can insulate, you can check existing electrical (add circuits if necessary) and change fixtures around (location).
I have been told that any good sheetrock guy can do the same thing you did at a fraction of what I paid. It is very difficult to find a person who works in plaster. If you want the guy I used I'll look for his number. I think it was ELA Plastering.
Good luck. |
bobk
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 3309
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, August 19, 2003 - 9:45 am: | |
Another problem with the sheet rock approach is that when it comes time to trim out the doors you have to extend the jams by the thickness of the sheetrock, not the end of the world, but something to think about. |
themp
Citizen
Username: Themp
Post Number: 141
Registered: 12-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, August 20, 2003 - 12:40 pm: | |
Thanks. All the trim is gone - mouldings, window trim etc. and the electrical is spotty at best, so I am thinking drywall. Also, money is a huge huge factor. Maybe drywall over the existing plaster so that we retain insulating property, soundproofing, and save on the demo phase. |
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