Author |
Message |
   
Jay060
Citizen Username: Jay060
Post Number: 137 Registered: 8-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 9:57 am: |
|
Got an estimate to reglaze tile walls in bathroom, including tub (excluding the tub) surround...~$800 for about 100 sq ft. How would this compare in cost to removing the tile and replacing...assuming relatively cheap tile ($2 sq. ft.) Also, I could remove the tile as well to save money (also assuming a hammer and chisel is all I need) |
   
Handygirl
Citizen Username: Handygirl
Post Number: 527 Registered: 2-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 10:17 am: |
|
Keep in mind that when you remove tile from walls you might have to re-sheetrock the walls (depending on how easily the tile comes off and the condition of the walls following the removal). |
   
george H
Citizen Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 98 Registered: 8-2005
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 10:27 am: |
|
A.You dont sheetrock behind tile as its not an approved substrate in wet areas and the paper facing is an ideal breeding ground for mold.B.If your tile installation is the old fashioned mortar job, youll regret ever starting this project,especially if you plan on keeping the old tub and shower valve,etc.Compared to an 800 price to reglaze,well,you decide. |
   
Jay060
Citizen Username: Jay060
Post Number: 138 Registered: 8-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 10:37 am: |
|
House was built in 1968. Does that give any indication as to what's behind the tile? |
   
george H
Citizen Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 99 Registered: 8-2005
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 10:50 am: |
|
A lot of homes that age were built with sheetrock behind the tile.Even if that were the case,you wouldnt replace it,and even if you sucessfully removed the tile,you would tear up the paper facing,thus rendering the surface unsuitable for re-tiling.I would think that while you were at it,you would want to replace a 38 yr. old mixing valve.As you might imagine,removing the tile opens up the potential for all kinds of cans of worms. |
   
Handygirl
Citizen Username: Handygirl
Post Number: 528 Registered: 2-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 11:09 am: |
|
True George. What I meant was that, as you and I both stated, ripping out the tile would destroy (or make unusable) whatever was behind it - sheetrock, plaster or whatever. And you would have to replace the walls with greenboard - or whatever people are using for bathroom walls these days. Jay, it will be significantly more expensive and definitely more time consuming - but also more thorough. I guess it depends on your inclination and wallet. It's a different category of job - completely. |
   
Bob K
Supporter Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10402 Registered: 5-2001
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 11:12 am: |
|
The best thing to use is cemenet board, often called Wonderboard after the leading brand name. Greenboard will not stand up to water. It should only be used in a damp area, but not in a shower/tub. |
   
Jay060
Citizen Username: Jay060
Post Number: 139 Registered: 8-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 11:19 am: |
|
This is a quick fix, not a long term solution. Guess I'll go with the reglaze. Thanks. |
   
Handygirl
Citizen Username: Handygirl
Post Number: 530 Registered: 2-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 11:57 am: |
|
Let us know how the reglaze looks - maybe post before and after photos. |
   
george H
Citizen Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 100 Registered: 8-2005
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 1:49 pm: |
|
FWIW,The only place I use Durock,Wonder bd.,or any of those type of products is on floors prior to tiling which I thinset down to the sub-floor or more times than not add another layer of ply and than thinset it down.While conceptually its a good product on walls around tubs and showers,I find that getting a neater,tighter fit around radius's of tubs and holes for mixers is better achieved using Denshield,which is a gypsum type product,with a plastic,rippled face,for tile,and a woven fiberglass mat which serves as a vapor barrier and eliminates the need to staple up 15 lb.felt,as is called for with wonder bd.Cuts like sheetrock,nailed w.galv.roofing nails.Taped corners and seams with whatever setting material being used.Compatible with thinset or organic adhesives.Best of all,no grit underfoot which can scratch fixtures.More $ than W.B. but well worth it. |
   
Bob K
Supporter Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10410 Registered: 5-2001
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 3:00 pm: |
|
George H. thanks for the tip. Do home centers carry this or do you have to go to a lumberyard? |
   
george H
Citizen Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 101 Registered: 8-2005
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 3:40 pm: |
|
Bob K.,Jaegar in Union has 4x5 sheets.Same for Dreyers in Chatham.Huston Lumber has both 4x5&4x8.You can probably google Denshield.com for specs.,limitations,etc.The material is also rated for floors and counters although I prefer cement board for floors for its endurance holding up under foot traffic prior to tiling and its compatibility with portland based products. |
   
Handygirl
Citizen Username: Handygirl
Post Number: 533 Registered: 2-2004
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 3:44 pm: |
|
Awesome. Thanks George. At some point during the next year I am planning on tackling a bathroom. This thread has been helpful. |
   
Cody 2002
Citizen Username: Cody2002
Post Number: 20 Registered: 6-2005
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 4:00 pm: |
|
Jay-- also looking into reglazing. Have you found anyone to use yet that you might share? |
   
Jay060
Citizen Username: Jay060
Post Number: 140 Registered: 8-2003
| Posted on Wednesday, January 25, 2006 - 5:00 pm: |
|
the quote (over the phone, mind you) was from Premier Refinishing in Verona. They quoted me: Tub: $350 (not including surround) Walls: $8.50/sq. ft. Regrout: $2.50/sq. ft.
|
   
Mummite
Citizen Username: Mummite
Post Number: 209 Registered: 6-2003
| Posted on Thursday, January 26, 2006 - 5:00 pm: |
|
My sister's friend just tiled over tile...it apparently looked pretty damn good too! |