| Author |
Message |
    
Shanabana
Citizen
Username: Shanabana
Post Number: 199
Registered: 10-2005
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 9:04 am: | 
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We're working on our bathroom. We want to level out a layer of mud over a couple layers of plywood, which will be on the joists which are not perfectly level. Anyone ever used self-leveling cement? Does it work? Is it easy to use? |
Tom Reingold
Supporter
Username: Noglider
Post Number: 12436
Registered: 1-2003
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 2:45 pm: |
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Isn't it liquid? If so, then how could it not be self-levelling?
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tom
Citizen
Username: Tom
Post Number: 4334
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 2:59 pm: |
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Normal concrete is about as liquid as sour cream. It'll sit -- and dry -- in a big pile if you let it. |
Case
Citizen
Username: Case
Post Number: 1099
Registered: 2-2005
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 3:37 pm: |
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There IS a self-leveling compound you can buy, but is most certainly not cement. I'll call my friendly neighborhood contractor and get the name of it for you... |
Shanabana
Citizen
Username: Shanabana
Post Number: 201
Registered: 10-2005
| | Posted on Friday, February 10, 2006 - 10:21 pm: |
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I'm pretty sure there's cement in it, though mixed with other stuff. I guess I was wondering if anyone has worked with it, and if it is difficult, or conversely, as as easy and as genius as it sounds, etc. We had a badly cracked tile floor before, and I just don't want a repeat situation. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10631
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 5:19 am: |
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This came up a couple of weeks ago.
The product mentioned was made by QuickCrete |
george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 119
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 9:35 am: |
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If you had a badly cracked floor before,you might consider beefing up your framing,as most cracking is caused by deflection of the sub-floor.You might also consider a crack isolation membrane under your tile or a modified mud bed which is a lot thinner than a traditional mud bed. |
darrensager
Citizen
Username: Darrensager
Post Number: 297
Registered: 11-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 9:53 am: |
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QuikCrete is a brand. They have a few products that can help.
click on the links:
http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/Self-LevelingFloorResurfacer.html
http://www.quikrete.com/catalog/Fast_SettingSelf-LevelingFloorResurfacer.html |
Jgberkeley
Citizen
Username: Jgberkeley
Post Number: 4424
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 4:54 pm: |
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I have used it, and it is a mix of plastic and cement. Add water it is pretty liquid. Pour it onto the project and it will pretty much level. Sometimes I use a trowl to help it then leave it be to let it level out.
Then it will harden, kinda like Jello, but harder.
Works pretty good.
Sand works well in some applications.
What are you putting on top of it? That can make a difference. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10636
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 5:06 pm: |
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Gerorge,
Thanks for the information. How thick can you lay the filler? I assume you are talking about the Quikkrete product Darensager linked to. |
sk8mom
Citizen
Username: Sk8mom
Post Number: 423
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 5:17 pm: |
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I thought it was called C-Cure. |
george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 123
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, February 11, 2006 - 5:35 pm: |
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A modified mud job would consist of the following:First,lay down 15lb.or preferably,30lb.felt to serve as a slip sheet, and to prevent the mortar from adhering to the sub-floor.Next,nail down expanded metal lathe with galv.roofing nails.You can then skim coat a layer of thinset completely covering the lathe.Be advised that thinset is not recomended if your floor is badly out of level.The self leveling product,in my opinion,is a dbl.edged sword,depending on which way your floor is off.Most outside walls stay relatively true with the slope heading into the rm.Say you need to go from the outside wall to 3/4" at the door.How would you make the transition from the door into the hall without creating a trip hazard.Sure, you could use a marble saddle,with a pc. of trim across the 3/4" leveling cmpd.but you would still be stepping up,so to speak,into the rm.This is why a traditional mud job was usually done in the first place.Then again,the weight associated with a mud job also can create the crookedness we're talking about. |
Shanabana
Citizen
Username: Shanabana
Post Number: 208
Registered: 10-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, February 12, 2006 - 12:00 am: |
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Thanks, all. The product we got is Level-quick RS. |
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