| Author |
Message |
    
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2420
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 10:31 am: | 
|
Here's the deal. I'm physically strong, and logical. Not afraid of tools. We own a 1950's cape cod house, so not at all afraid of vinyl replacement windows messing with the gestalt. On a very tight budget which, if I'm lucky, could allow for purchase this late Spring of 5 replacement windows for upstairs. Existing windows are pretty bad, and 2 missing screens. I just spend 1/2 hr looking at windows in HD, and talking to a very knowlegeable, nice young man about the DIY angle. He gave me a mess of literature, which I intend to study up on.
I need you guys to tell me why I shouldn't attempt this, or at least one of them (the bathroom) to get my feet wet. What typically goes wrong that I can't handle. Does the answer lie with shims? (from what I've seen in life and on tv, the answer to everything construction lies with shims).
Pls, either save me from myself with horror stories, or encourage me! The window for the bathroom would cost me about $130, and that's a fur piece from what some professionals would charge me, all in. I own all tools already.
Thanks! |
Rrtrd2
Citizen
Username: Rrtrd2
Post Number: 2
Registered: 10-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 10:47 am: |
|
CYNICALGIRL:
IF YOU install the windows yourself, you will save
about $100 per window. We charge that for installing replacement windows.
I see no reason why you shouldn't be able to do this. The worse that could happen is that you may have to replace the window stop, that's if you break it taking it off. but that to is not a problem. You can re-install it and just fillin where it was cracked and then repaint it.
most of the time a stock replacement window will not need shims, but if they do, so what, just be sure to caulk the window frame before you put the window in. If the opening on each side is too large to caulk use that foam insulation in a can.
Try one, see how it goes, you shouldn't have a problem. If you do, pl me and I'll guide you through. Good Luck. |
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2421
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 10:55 am: |
|
Hey, thanks, Rrtrd2. Yep, I was thinkin' to start small, like the one in the bathroom. Question: Is there any work that needs to be done outside? I ask because the two end windows (bedrooms) are upstairs and there's no roof to stand on. I appreciate the offer of advice should I need it.
$100 is not bad if I get in a jamb (har-har). But, for me, $500 right now is a bunch. Also, do you know if old windows can go to the recycling place in Maplewood?
Thanks again. Believe me, if I could I'd be hiring you. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10872
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 11:04 am: |
|
The toughest part is getting the correct measurements and making sure the window frames are square. The instructions you have should help. Pray, if that is the right word, that your openings are standard sizes and you don't have to special order. I believe that the outside has to be caulked to keep the weather out.
Also check the web for further instructions and hints.
|
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2422
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 11:08 am: |
|
Hiya, Bob K. I'm willing to pray. I do know what you mean about standard sizes. We ran into that where we used to live, in a '70's development house. Come time to replace sliding door and such, well, original was "builder's grade" and some odd builder's sizes. Required some rigging to put replacements in, or special order.
Yeah, it's the outside caulking thought that I wonder about. On the 3 that are accessible by roof, no sweat. I will review instructions online and so on. I'm the type to read/study a lot before making a move. But, I've got 2 that I must do something about given rotten sill in one due to previous owners' lack of care. |
george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 140
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 11:43 am: |
|
Another consideration is that you must remove the storm window inserts and unscrew the frame.This normally leaves unsightly caulking on the outside of the stop which can be a real dog to try to scrape off.A lot of contractors will bend aluminum to cover the stop and give it a finished look.I've had success cutting off the old sill flush with the house and making up a dummy sill out of cedar to match the other existing sills.Usually a 5 degree angle on the house cut with a 1/4" saw kerf cut on the underside to let water drip off rather than run back to and then down the house.Like any dyi project,have a plan and expect the unexpected. |
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2423
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 11:58 am: |
|
My existing windows are a sort of 2 or 3 track unit with the storm and screen on different tracks. All one thing. Is that the kind you are referring to, george h? If so, the tasks you describe are more than I'm up for. |
greenetree
Supporter
Username: Greenetree
Post Number: 6847
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 12:12 pm: |
|
Cyn - I PLed you. |
george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 141
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 12:34 pm: |
|
Those are the kind I'm talking about.The reason you have to remove them is that with the new unit,which including the frame,is smaller than the original and you'll not be able to remove the inserts once the new replacement is installed and thus have no way to clean them,not to mention the redundancy of having storms with thermal pane windows. |
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2424
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 12:52 pm: |
|
Something tells me I'll start with the bathroom window, where I can go out on the porch roof, and take it from there! |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10876
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 12:59 pm: |
|
Nothing like a random orbital sander to get that old caulking off the trim.  |
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2426
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 1:21 pm: |
|
We have one! We have a bunch of tools, and while my husband is not up to hard core help these days, he can tell me stuff to try. I hung some shelves that way, not being terribly knowlegable about screws, and mollies and all that stuff. He likes this idea of starting with the bathroom to see how it goes. I'm OK on that roof, but have some dizziness borne of age or fear of heights that would get in the way of me up on a 2-story ladder. |
Rrtrd2
Citizen
Username: Rrtrd2
Post Number: 3
Registered: 10-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 2:04 pm: |
|
The caulking of the new replacement is done from
the inside. you might be able to clean the old caulking off from the inside as well, as long as you don't fall out the window. LOL.
Be careful on the roof. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10880
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 5, 2006 - 2:30 pm: |
|
I swear when we had a few windows replaced the guys finished up working on the outside.
These windows didn't have triple tracks so cleaning up the caulking wasn't an issue. |
Closed: New threads not accepted on this page