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jolynn
Citizen
Username: Unixiscool
Post Number: 21
Registered: 2-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 7:44 pm: | 
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Hello,
I am looking to put up a non-load bearing wall in my basement and am thinking about using steel studs. I am interested in others experience with this as a DIY project. Is it easier then wood? Did you use wood and steel together? What gauge steel did you use? This will be my first time building a wall so any input is appreciated.
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doulamomma
Citizen
Username: Doulamomma
Post Number: 1208
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Saturday, March 11, 2006 - 10:56 pm: |
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Caveat: no DIY experience with this personally - just what I have gathered while watching contractors do two basment finishings & various other construction on previous & current homes...
Think about what will happen on the wall - will you want to hang heavy things on it like shelves? If so, steel studs could be a problem. I think steel might be faster & maybe cheaper. If electrical runs through it, must do in a certain way to protect the wires. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10916
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 5:28 am: |
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For the amateur wood is easier and more forgiving. I have watched pros use steel and cutting the studs and plates to length requires a special saw blade and snips have to be used for some cuts.
I read someplace that steel is cheaper than wood these dates, but for one wall the difference isn't going to be enough to worry about.
As Doulamomma points out you have to plan ahead if you are going to put up anything heavy and put in wood blocking where you will be attaching cabinets, etc. |
jolynn
Citizen
Username: Unixiscool
Post Number: 22
Registered: 2-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 8:12 am: |
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The wall is really just going to be a divider so I am not concerned with the issue of weight. I also know you have to buy sleeve covers for the electrical wire.
I guess I should elaborate; I am going to have to build the wall in place because of several pipes going through the middle of it and my lopsided floor. The idea of trying to toe nails in intimidates me. What about a combination of the two, where the top and bottom plates are steel channels and the studs are wood? This meets code and from what I have read you can just screw in the studs this way.
What I like about the idea of all steel studs is being able to use a magnetic level and then clamping the studs in place before you screw them together. But once again this is all just in my head and a reality check is always appreciated.
Bob, why do you think wood is for forgiving?
Thanks,
Jolynn
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Jgberkeley
Citizen
Username: Jgberkeley
Post Number: 4479
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 9:00 am: |
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Steel studs are easy and a DIY project for all.
Gloves, Electric saw, electric screw gun and you are into the fun. Did I say gloves? You must have gloves.
For electrical wires you should not use Romex, DO use Aromored BX. Even with plactic sleeves the Romex can be cut very quickly by sharp edges. |
Travis
Citizen
Username: Travis
Post Number: 372
Registered: 6-2004
| | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 10:02 am: |
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A big advantage of steel is they come straight, not the warped crap that is all you can get in wood anymore. For hanging anything you need molly anchors in the DW.
Get 20ga, 25ga is very flimsy. A good snips is really all you need for cutting, but I do hear there are tricks that the pros learn on commercial jobs. Among them is not going with thin gauges....
I wouldn't use Romex, but I wouldn't use BX either. It's harder to work with and the armor is the grounding path. Use MC, it has a separate grounding conductor, get the armored cable cutter and it's a piece of cake. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10919
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 10:32 am: |
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George has the advantage of first hand experience, but I still think most amateurs are going to have trouble cutting steel studs without deforming them. Just an opinion.
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george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 145
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, March 12, 2006 - 3:13 pm: |
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A few thoughts;If your building around existing pipes,wood offers you greater flexibility.No matter what you use,you'll still need to fasten into the concrete floor.Considering that its just a partition,you could probably get away with drilling with a masonary bit and pinning the pressure treated bottom plate with 10D masonary nails.For the minor amt. of studs you need,you could take your time over at Home Cheapo and pick the best ones.Wood is forgiving in that a wrongly cut stud can be set to the side and used to dbl. up a stud or saved for another project.Any extra steel would more than likely become something to move around until you decided to toss it. |
mark halliday
Citizen
Username: Markhalliday
Post Number: 16
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 4:35 pm: |
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how come no one mentioned that metal studs are also Fireproof too??? And for concrete floors wedging the tracks tight to the floor while the super duty liquid nails dries is a wonder to behold
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