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Message |
    
SO1969
Citizen
Username: Bklyn1969
Post Number: 228
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 7:37 pm: | 
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Rec'd quote at $50 per window.
Seems reasonable, but wanted to know if others are paying less.
I've read it is not that hard, but I'm sure I'd find a way to kill several Saturdays doing it. |
Jgberkeley
Citizen
Username: Jgberkeley
Post Number: 4483
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 8:07 pm: |
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Well if it helps, I charge more and do it all the time. Make sure the cords are replaced with sash chain, a special chain.
Make sure the pullys are greased, all 4.
Make sure that the windows open and stay open, close and stay close and do not bind, a check of chain length.
Make sure the moldings were not destroyed and were replaced correctly, and make sure that the removed and replaced moldings were caulked.
I always sweep and vaccum the paint chips and stuff.
But not for $50 a window.
Oh, and the guy or gal must have a State license, Gen. Lib Insurance, and Workers Comp. Insurance or you are on the hook for a fine.
Good luck,
George |
mark halliday
Citizen
Username: Markhalliday
Post Number: 17
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Tuesday, March 14, 2006 - 9:21 pm: |
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It takes 45 -60 minutes a window to gently remove the inside window stop, remove the lower sash, remove the center stop and open the side access doors. then you replace each of the four cords with genuine sash chain as JG says. the chain kits are $20-30 and do about 2-3 windows. grease the pulleys(may require chipping the three hundred coats of paint away so they actually spin smoothly) adjust the weights so they slide freely then put it all back together and touch up the paint. $50 -60 a window is very reasonable. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 10940
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 4:55 am: |
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If your windows are painted you can easily replace any stops that are damaged during removal. If you have natural stained trim (usually chestnut around here) finding replacement stops may be very difficult.
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SO1969
Citizen
Username: Bklyn1969
Post Number: 233
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 2:45 pm: |
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Thanks for input.
JGB and MH - you give me pause on the quality I may be getting.
To clarify, the quote I received requires me to purchase the chains. |
TomR
Citizen
Username: Tomr
Post Number: 1021
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 3:38 pm: |
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Why chains as opposed to sash cord?
TomR |
Jgberkeley
Citizen
Username: Jgberkeley
Post Number: 4488
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 4:18 pm: |
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Cord will just rot again. The chain last many times longer. And the cord is hard to find at times.
On and consider loss, if while doing it one breaks the glass in the window.
One of the hazards of the job.
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gj1
Citizen
Username: Gj1
Post Number: 315
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 6:16 pm: |
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TomR - it's personal preference, both chain and cord have pros and cons. I use cord because it's what was there originally. If the pulleys have a rounded groove they were designed for cord, though you can use chain. The couple of my windows that had chain installed didn't operate as smoothly as the ones with cord, and they were noisy which I didn't like.
Chain should have a longer life span than cord, but unless the windows are very large or heavy cord will last quite a long time. Chain is also somewhat more expensive, though probably not by enough to be much of a factor.
Buncher's Hardware in Millburn carries cotton sash cord. If you go with cord, make sure to get cotton cord, not the crap they sell at HD. If I remember correctly, I used #7 (7/32") cord.
Kilian Hardware has a good selection of chain as well as cotton cord.
BTW - I guess $50/window is an OK price for just replacing the sash cords, but this also provides a great oportunity to do a few additional things to get your windows into peak condition that are easier with the sashes removed: strip built up paint from the sashes/jambs/pulleys, replace cracked panes, repair loose glazing, paint jambs and sashes and install weatherstripping. I realize this makes it a bigger project, but just something to consider. These steps will make your windows look and function like new. |
mark halliday
Citizen
Username: Markhalliday
Post Number: 18
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, March 15, 2006 - 10:41 pm: |
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great point about the caulk if you do it yourself. what the heck, while at it make sure the "sweat holes" for the storms aren't painted shut too. a squirt of wd-40 will make them slide smoother to(storms) |
SO1969
Citizen
Username: Bklyn1969
Post Number: 237
Registered: 7-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2006 - 2:59 pm: |
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What exactly should I be caulking? A prior owner has done a nice job of caulking and painting the sweat holes, leading to some peeling paint.
Also, where do I put the weatherstripping? There is none now.
Thx. |
gj1
Citizen
Username: Gj1
Post Number: 316
Registered: 11-2003
| | Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2006 - 3:37 pm: |
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SO - if you have permanent storms, everything should be tight except for any vent holes there to prevent condensation. Also, seal any gaps around the interior and exterior trim.
You can install spring bronze weatherstripping around the jamb and at the meeting rail. This weatherstripping is not visible with the window closed. You can order several different sizes from Kilian Hardware. You can do this with the sashes in place, but it is easier with them removed. |
mark halliday
Citizen
Username: Markhalliday
Post Number: 19
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, March 16, 2006 - 3:37 pm: |
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there is a glazing putty that is around the outside of the window sash. it holds the glass in place along with little triangular flat metal "nails". The caulk goes around where each of the strips of molding meet on the outside (closes gaps to reduce draft and allows for exoansion and contraction). When you reinstall the interior moldings you may need to caulk/putty a little too. I'll open myself up for abuse but I have never seen really good, good looking window weather stripping. Maybe I'm an old-timer but I kind of feel you either keep the double hung sash true to its original state with all the implied maintenance and drafts....or you bite the bullet and spring for good, high quality replacement thermal pane windows. Then tou can insulate the weight and pulley spaces and caulk the heck out of it. Always a tough call |
VinnyM
Citizen
Username: Frodo
Post Number: 138
Registered: 3-2002
| | Posted on Friday, March 17, 2006 - 12:31 pm: |
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I know I can do it myself, but can somebody recommend someone reliable to do this type of work. I have a bunch of windows that are in disrepair. |
mark halliday
Citizen
Username: Markhalliday
Post Number: 22
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Saturday, March 18, 2006 - 6:36 am: |
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I am a licensed insured GC. i can give you an estimate and referrals if you like. thanks |
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