| Author |
Message |
    
TomR
Citizen
Username: Tomr
Post Number: 1040
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 12:14 pm: | 
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The cold water shutoff for the second floor bath is seized in the open position.
The valve was installed in an inverted position, and has that lovely green/white corrosion on the valve.
Any suggestions for un-seizing it?
I'm reluctant to start with the big wrench option.
Thanks for any help.
TomR |
Jgberkeley
Citizen
Username: Jgberkeley
Post Number: 4530
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 12:38 pm: |
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Try WD-40, a good soaking, then work it slow.
This is never good and you may have to replace the valve. |
TomR
Citizen
Username: Tomr
Post Number: 1042
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 2:29 pm: |
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Tried th WD-40 for a few days, no luck so far. As I wrote the valve is inverted, so the WD isn't penetrating the joint between the stem and the cap.
Thanks for the suggestion though. Anything else?
TomR |
blackcat
Citizen
Username: Blackcat
Post Number: 552
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 2:39 pm: |
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Use PB Blaster. I use it for freeing seized parts on my '72 Datsun 240. Pep Boys sells it.
http://www.pbblaster.com/index.cfm |
Jason
Citizen
Username: Jason
Post Number: 82
Registered: 3-2004
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 2:55 pm: |
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Second on the PB Blaster - that stuff works well on even the most seized of parts (beyond what WD40 could do). |
LazyDog
Citizen
Username: Lazydog
Post Number: 231
Registered: 6-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 6:39 pm: |
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If possible, put WD40 in a paper cup and tie it valve so joint is submerged. Probably 1/2 inch or so. |
TomR
Citizen
Username: Tomr
Post Number: 1043
Registered: 6-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 6:56 pm: |
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LazyDog,
Thanks for the suggestion. The rag wrap didn't work, but I'll give it a try.
I really hate going the big wrench route.
TomR |
kmk
Supporter
Username: Kmk
Post Number: 1145
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 7:14 pm: |
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Well we had the whole fiasco of a seized valve get much, much worse.
The water company wanted to install a new water meter just after we moved in. The old meter was oddly mounted close to the floor in the basement. THe main shut off valve was seized. They insisted that our plumber close the valve for the work to be done.
Plumber gets the big wrench. Blasted thing breaks off in his hand....takes a good chunk of old pipe with it. Now there is only 2" of pipe sticking out of the slab! How to reinstall a meter? Need a whole new water line.
Next come the jackhammers, open the basement floor, open the driveway to replace entire water main to street.
"You found a what in the driveway?" The old seized valve now leads to an abandoned oil tank that needs to be removed. Driveway then has to be completely ripped up and repaved!
It has been 10 years and I still cringe at the sight of old pipes. |
Dennis J O'Neill
Citizen
Username: Plungy
Post Number: 12
Registered: 6-2005
| | Posted on Thursday, April 6, 2006 - 11:19 pm: |
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Typically, when we see old corroded riser valves like the ones you are describing we LEAVE THEM ALONE. Use the "house side" valve at the water meter. This gives you the option of turning off the "street side" valve if the house side breaks off in your hand or the packing nut cracks and starts to leak. Do your repair and turn the water back on. The next time your plumber visits he can replace the stuck valves with the newer "ball type" valves which are much more reliable. |
Dennis J O'Neill
Citizen
Username: Plungy
Post Number: 13
Registered: 6-2005
| | Posted on Friday, April 7, 2006 - 11:51 am: |
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BTW penatrating oil never works for this because the stem is siezed inside the valve body where the pressurized water is. No way the oil is going where it needs to be. |
Bailey
Citizen
Username: Baileymac
Post Number: 217
Registered: 3-2005
| | Posted on Friday, April 7, 2006 - 12:15 pm: |
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You should be able to free this..
Turn the main valve off, put some towels on the floor to catch anything that spills, release the pressure on your water system by opening valves in that bathroom and on the 1st floor.
Then, you should be able to remove the valve bonnet with a small wrench, which should loosen up the valve stem somewhat.
Then, use a pliers to wiggle the valve stem counterclockwise, maybe back and forth a bit. It should come loose.
If not, put it back together and as Dennis said, abandon it.. use the main valve to control the water. |
Master Plvmber
Citizen
Username: Master_plvmber
Post Number: 521
Registered: 3-2003
| | Posted on Friday, April 7, 2006 - 1:11 pm: |
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The job Bailey is describing is NOT a DIY job for the average homeowner.
Proceed with caution.
Master Plvmber |
Bailey
Citizen
Username: Baileymac
Post Number: 219
Registered: 3-2005
| | Posted on Friday, April 7, 2006 - 8:22 pm: |
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Gee.. my Mom always told me I was above average.. I guess she was right!
On a difficulty scale of 1-10, I'd say what I'd suggested was maybe a 5?
Of course, as Master Plvmber suggested, proceed with caution. Worst case is the valve breaks, and then you can call Master Plvmber to come fix it.
:-)
My plumbing skills are a tad more developed than the average homeowner, but I'm not a master plumber.
I worked for one of them though, my Uncle, when I was younger. He taught me a lot.
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