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Dobler88
Citizen
Username: Dobler88
Post Number: 101
Registered: 7-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 9:38 am: | 
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Our bathroom is not horrendous, but I don't love it either. There is a beige tile floor and tile bath/shower combo. rest is all plain painted walls (i.e., no wall tile).
I want to:
refinish beige bathtub to make it white
replace tile floor with octagon tiles (probably all white)
replace tile in shower/tub with white tile with some accent clear glass tiles
do beadboard wainscoting on walls
replace sink/cabinet with something more "original" looking
replace toilet
I can figure out what it costs for new sink cabinet and toilet, but anyone have any ideas on what the tile replacement would be?
bathroom is SMALL--8x5.
Am I crazy to think I can do this for less than 10K?
Also, dumb question. What do you do when they are replacing tile in your shower and it is the only shower in your house? Bunk at friends? how long does it take?
Thank you!
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Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2599
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 10:21 am: |
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Having our bathroom floor retiled involved ripping up the old, and replacement of subfloor. Then tile. The worst of the cost is not the tile, but the labor. We paid $1,100 for the floor job, and I'd bought the tile for less than $200. Floor area is about 5' x 9' (I'm excluding the tub area, but counting the floor of the linen closet.
I believe the tub refinishing is about $300-$350 and is a one day job.
As it happens, the guy who did the whole job worked with me such that I bought the fixtures, he supplied the labor. Had to bring in a plumber for the sink/toilet install. I think that was pretty cheap, maybe $150 in labor.
I suspect that the tile labor is what will get you. Often when they take down old tile they go down to the frame and replace the wallboard. Still, it's the tile labor that's the worst. Can't speak to the cost of the beadboarding.
I'm betting the wall tile Labor would be at least what the floor tile labor is. Tile is a several day process I believe, remove on day 1 and maybe put up the wallboard. Tile on day 2. Grout day 3. Clean up day 4. But, this could have been a bit a function of the guy's preferred workflow. I'd count on other shower strategies were I you. We were lucky in that we had 2 showers. |
george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 153
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 10:54 am: |
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You're being rather optimistic if you think that you can grout tile the day after installing them.Any competent tilesetter will allow at least 2 days as it is a fact that after 24 hrs.,thinset has achieved only 25% of its strength and that stressing the mortar too soon can lead to thinset failure.Organic adhesive,which dries by evaporation,also needs a minimum of 48 hrs.prior to grouting.The only exception to this rule is possibly a tile backsplash in the kitchen as this is more cosmetic than a waterproof,wearing surface.Don't forget sealing the installation to prevent staining of grout due to soap scum and minerals in the water.Grout needs to cure 72 hrs.prior to this process.One final thought.Are you considering replacing your tub mixer while the wall is open as this would be a prime time to do so? How about a dedicated 15 amp circuit,GFI outlet and exhaust fan vented to outside? |
Cynicalgirl
Citizen
Username: Cynicalgirl
Post Number: 2603
Registered: 9-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 11:13 am: |
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I've an admittedly dim memory on this; too, the guy was balancing several jobs so it was never entirely clear how much delay was necessary to the process, and how much to curing, etc. What do you think of my recollected prices for the labor, though? |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 11163
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 12:25 pm: |
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Dobler, you sound like you are planning a cosmetic facelift.
You can put a second layer of tile over the existing tile on the floor if everything is structually sound and reasonably level. Some frown on this, but it is done all the time.
Retiling the walls is more problematical. Once a tile guy or gal starts taking out the old tile you never know what they will find for a substrate or if there is rot in the studs. In 1920s houses my experience (limited to two houses we owned in MW) is that the wall tile is set in "mud" and removing this is expensive.
For the bead board walls I suggest you look into using 4x8 sheets instead of indiviudual boards. The boards are usually fairly thick and would take up some of the already limited space.
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jersey Boy
Citizen
Username: Jersey_boy
Post Number: 445
Registered: 1-2006
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 1:11 pm: |
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Dobler,
You sound like me about six months ago when I was trying to minimize costs for our bathroom "repair." First the toilet started to leak, I said, " If they have to rip out tile let's replace the ugly tile." During the tile removal, the pipes started to leak....
$17 grand later, the whole room was gutted. New framing, new plumbing and new electrical. I fought to keep the cost low: bought my own sink and toilet, kept the old cast iron tub. But I also skimped on the labor -- told him NOT to install wall sconces over the sink, which was STUPID. Now the wall's closed and I have to decide to leave and get on with the painting (which I'm doing myself.)
Good luck. Try to stay under $10k but be willing /prepared to go over if it's truly needed, and don't be rigid if a good idea comes by. When our guy had the wall open, he found that the pop-out wall was housing an old vent pipe. He offered to remove the pop-out and it gave us about 10 inches of extra space in a small bathroom. Sure it added to the cost, but was worth it.
J.B.
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Lizziecat
Citizen
Username: Lizziecat
Post Number: 1151
Registered: 5-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 1:22 pm: |
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Wait until the summer and shower outside with your hose, or at the pool. |
george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy
Post Number: 154
Registered: 8-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 3:04 pm: |
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Dont forget disposal costs at anywhere from 6-800 dollars and costs associated with setting the job up properly such as drops and 2x8 pcs.of 1/4"luan ply to protect the floor,numerous garbage cans[without holes in them],enough personel to keep a continuous chain going and a good lead person in charge with enough common sense and mechanical ability to handle any situation that may present itself.The mess made from a mud rip can be rather much and can be minimized with a little bit of foresight.Then again,theres no subsitute for experience.I've been fortunate to been able to walk away from some jobs where the customer thought they knew more than me or that wanted to take some half measures rather than do the job right and I've never regretted taking such action.The trick is to identify these type of jobs before investing too much time and effort. |
Dobler88
Citizen
Username: Dobler88
Post Number: 102
Registered: 7-2005
| | Posted on Sunday, April 9, 2006 - 8:16 pm: |
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wow, thanks everyone for the input.
THere's already a gfi outlet, plus a fan, and some good recessed lighting. the tile in the shower plainly has been redone in the last 15 years or so. So it's clear to me that the bathroom was redone totally, probably sometime in the 1990s--I just don't LIKE it. So that's my quandary--it doesn't NEED it, so I worry I'm opening myself up to more trouble than its worth! If they open up shower walls and it needs to be gutted, i'm not going to skimp. So I need to be ready for that, I guess!
All good points to ponder..thanks again!
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Wendyn
Supporter
Username: Wendyn
Post Number: 2903
Registered: 9-2002
| | Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 8:10 am: |
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I would advise considering replacing the tub if you are all but gutting the bathroom. I love love love my original cast iron tub, but if you refinish you are going to have to keep doing it every 5 years or so (depending on use). |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 11167
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Monday, April 10, 2006 - 8:27 am: |
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Dobler, if the bath was totally redone in the last 15 years you have greatly improved your odds of not finding structual problems. |
mbb
Citizen
Username: Mbb
Post Number: 15
Registered: 4-2006
| | Posted on Monday, April 17, 2006 - 6:17 pm: |
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If you plan to change the color of the tub, you should think twice about refinishing. I have been told that tub refinishing lasts for about 2-3 years, with the area around the drain being the first place to peel.
Replacing an old tub is not easy, either. A lot is being said about a composite called Americast, but now that it has been around for a while, there are complaints about surface cracks and rusting. Synthetic materials may stain. Stainless steel (with porcelain finish) cools the water too fast and dents easily. The unanimous opinion of all my architect friends, and my research on the subject, led me to conclude that cast iron is probably the best choice, but not without caveats. A cast iron tub, deep enough to soak in, is expensive. It would also be heavy to move, and for this reason some plumbers refuse to install them on the second floor of an existing home. If you asked a plumber, however, what he would put in his home, he'd say "cast iron." I went with a cast iron bathtub by Kohler. |
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