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marken
Citizen
Username: Marken
Post Number: 254
Registered: 4-2003
| | Posted on Sunday, May 7, 2006 - 12:51 am: | 
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Our solid wood door (1915 house, orig heavy door) for our bathroom has a hinge problem.
I discovered that a previous owner had replaced the normal 1 1/2" hinge screws with 5" screws, but only for the upper hinge plate on the door jamb.
However, after attempting to reinstall the hinges onto the door jamb, the top two 5" screws in the upper hinge do not tighten ... they just spin. The other two screws in that jamb hinge are somewhat secure. The lower hinge is fine, still uses original screws. both hinge plates on the door itself are good, and also have original screws.
When I close the door, the upper hinge pulls away from the jamb, making the door sag, and not close properly.
This is our ONLY bathroom.
I need a fix ASAP, and came across these solutions below, but am very skeptical about whether either would work for a door so heavy as this one.
IDEA #1: Bore out the stripped holes with a 3/8-inch-diameter bit. Spread carpenter’s glue onto a 3/8-inch-diameter x 1-inch-long wood dowel and tap it into the hole until it’s flush with the jamb. Bore out and plug each of the remaining stripped screw holes the same way. Wait at least an hour. Then reposition the hinge leaf and bore 1/8-inch-diameter pilot holes. Finish by securing the hinge by driving screws into the dowel-reinforced holes.
IDEA #2: Unscrew the loose hinge. Squirt wood glue on a golf tee and tap it into the stripped hole until tight. Let the glue dry for an hour. Cut the golf tee flush with the door frame using a sharp utility knife, then screw the hinge back in place.
Similar concepts, sure, and if I do try this, I'll use shorter screws than the current 5" ones.
If you have first hand experience, advice or suggestions ... please help!
Thanks. |
Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk
Post Number: 11431
Registered: 5-2001
| | Posted on Sunday, May 7, 2006 - 5:40 am: |
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Obviously, because of the long screws, the door has had problems in the past.
Boring out the holes and putting in dowels should work well and last for a long time. Using golf tees or toothpicks is a short term fix.
Just make sure that the dowels you use are hardwood, not soft pine. I used quick set epoxy instead of wood glue when I did this. Also make sure that the dowels are set flush or slightly below the jam to avoid problems with the door closing correctly. Unless you are very skilled, don't use a power drill to tighten the screws. You may just strip the wood again.
This should be good for twenty years or so minimum.  |
mark halliday
Citizen
Username: Markhalliday
Post Number: 46
Registered: 11-2005
| | Posted on Wednesday, May 10, 2006 - 2:39 pm: |
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Bob is right. do the dowels first. If that doesn't work or last You can gently pry one side of the door casing off and glue/clamp/screw reinforcing blocks behind the door frame at the hinge points. once dry re-install the door and hinges, check for action and strength then install the casing. one trick...pull the casing nails through the back of the molding. Don't push them back out the face. good luck |
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