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Arsenal
Citizen
Username: Arsenal

Post Number: 90
Registered: 8-2004
Posted on Sunday, July 2, 2006 - 2:08 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

So I bought a new window unit from Lowes today. Installation was a problem, since its always a problem for me, but completed the job. However, the drainage hole on this unit sits right in the middle of the sill, between the window and the storm. All my other previous window units the drainage jutted out the end and fell into the garden below.

What our my options with this? The drain holes in my window have been all painted and caulked up over the years. Can I just drill one or two holes through the base of the storm?

Can I somehow block their drainage hole and drill a new one in the back of the unit through the frame?

What else would solve this problem.

Many thanks,
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Sherri De Rose
Citizen
Username: Honeydo

Post Number: 302
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Sunday, July 2, 2006 - 2:17 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

not sure what type of windows you have. but i would not drill into the unit. the unit should be far enough outside the window to allow for drainage. the best option is to unclog the drainage holes from your storms or do as you suggest, drill a few weep holes. make the holes at least 1/2" long by no more that 3/8" in height.

rich
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daylaborer
Citizen
Username: Upondaroof


Post Number: 780
Registered: 4-2003


Posted on Sunday, July 2, 2006 - 3:06 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Window AC's can be a major PITA! If indeed, the drain is over the sill, (might want to double check with manufacturer), then personally, I feel it would be better to fabricate some type of metal diverter to allow the condensate to drain out past the sill. The weep holes in the combo frame are to allow the occasional condensation and rain water that blows in through the screen to drain away. Definitely ensure that they are open and even enlarge same since the sill is now, in essence, to the weather all the time. Also make sure the sill is tight and painted to prevent water from entering the wall through same.
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kevin
Supporter
Username: Kevin

Post Number: 760
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Sunday, July 2, 2006 - 7:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Is it one of those Frigidaire units? I bought one and took it back. The unit was so loud, I couldn't hear myself think. I have 4 other units and they are relatively quiet and very quiet compared to the Frigidaire. I was thinking about trying an LG from HD.

Does anyone have a new air conditioner that they like and is relatively quiet?

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Wendy
Supporter
Username: Wendy

Post Number: 2665
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Sunday, July 2, 2006 - 10:53 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Yes, last week or so we bought a new small Frigidair Energy Star at Karls in Orange - right on the West Orange border. It's relatively quiet, was a good buy and it comes with a $20 rebate from PSE&G. We returned a Sharp unit we had purchased at Costco which was way too loud for us.
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kevin
Supporter
Username: Kevin

Post Number: 761
Registered: 2-2002
Posted on Monday, July 3, 2006 - 9:46 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Either I had a bad Frigidaire unit or the big box stores carry an inferior model to what a real appliance store carries.

The cheap units are just that, cheap. The manufacturers should spend a bit more time engineering the unit and then use the same design throughout their product lineup.

There are a few things which contribute to how loud a unit will be and that little bit of engineering on the front side would go a long way.

Turbulent air flow is the white-noise whoosh sound. All fans have it to some extent. It's depends on the speed of the fan. The faster the fan spins, the greater the airflow noise because of added turbulence. The smaller the vents, the more restrictive the housing is, or path of air takes, the more noise you get from the air rushing in or out and hitting the restrictions.

The fan blades themselves also make noise as they slice through the air. Most noise comes from the fastest moving part, the tips. The faster it is spinning, the noisier it is.

Manufacturers using cheap motors without ball bearings can cause noise as well. The cheap motors become unbalanced over time and when run at higher speeds.

So what you want is a large, slower moving ball bearing fan and a case with large intake and exhaust ports. The ports don't even have to be large as long as the path that the air takes is smooth and without sharp bends.

I also notice that all of the new units are using cheap styrofoam for the air path. None of my older units do this - they used smooth molded plastic. Even though styrofoam is a good insulator, I am wondering if the non-smooth texture of the surface is causing added turbulence and thus extra noise?

Okay, I am giving this way too much thought.


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Cerebrus Maximus
Citizen
Username: Xtralargebrain

Post Number: 67
Registered: 4-2006


Posted on Monday, July 3, 2006 - 8:47 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Arsenal,

Several of my a/c's also have a similarly poor design. Follow Dayloaborers advice. Put a block of wood in the windowsill to elevate the a/c above the storm window frame (about an inch). It takes some creativity but usually with a piece of aluminum foil, you can create a "diaper" that catches the water and then angle it down and out past the storm window lip.


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