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M-SO Message Board » Home Fix-it » Archive through August 21, 2006 » DIY, Hanging Interior PreHung Door question part II « Previous Next »

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Ken Scout
Citizen
Username: Lightningken

Post Number: 145
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 9:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Ok. so I took the advice from the first thread and I have hung the door myself, and it's completely level, and working fine. Two questions now remain...

1. I ended up using wood screws instead of nails....am I OK here? It was easier this way, and I figured I could back them out if I had made an error leveling, easier than wrenching out nails.

2. The door unit did not fit perfectly within the rough opening, and so it's flush on the inside of the door, but it only extends 5/6 of the way through the rough opening. This poses a problem when framing the door out. I can frame it out fine on the flush inside part of the door. But if I try and do it on the outside, it will leave a 1/2 inch gap between where the door frame ends and where the rough opening continue through the drywall on the other side.

Does this make sense? Any suggestions?

Thanks!
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daylaborer
Citizen
Username: Upondaroof


Post Number: 891
Registered: 4-2003


Posted on Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 10:38 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Sounds like you didn't order the right size jamb so you'll have to pad out the space with ripped jamb stock and hopefully you can cover the joint with a wider stop molding.
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daylaborer
Citizen
Username: Upondaroof


Post Number: 892
Registered: 4-2003


Posted on Tuesday, August 15, 2006 - 10:41 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

Re-reading, you can also use parting strip (1/2" x 3/4") to fill the void. Also, caulk and paint do wonders to conceal joints. Good luck!
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Bob K
Supporter
Username: Bobk

Post Number: 12405
Registered: 5-2001
Posted on Wednesday, August 16, 2006 - 3:48 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

This is pretty common when installing stock doors in old houses where the framing is really 2x4, not 1 1/2 x 31/2.

HD or any other home center has a large stock of millwork you can choose to extend the jam.
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george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy

Post Number: 301
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Wednesday, August 16, 2006 - 5:03 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

If parting strip is too thick,rip strips from any kind of 1x material and leave a double reveal with it and the casing.You'll never know the diff.
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Ken Scout
Citizen
Username: Lightningken

Post Number: 146
Registered: 11-2005
Posted on Wednesday, August 16, 2006 - 9:01 am:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

that's great. I'm off and running, hopefully will complete this weekend (Evenings and weekend job)

On the screws, am I ok there? How many screws should I place in order to ensure longevity of the frame? I currently have one drilled in every 18" around the perimeter. I imagine the framing will add some rigidity, but it's pretty sturdy already?

Thanks again, this has been MOST helpful.
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george H
Citizen
Username: Georgieboy

Post Number: 302
Registered: 8-2005
Posted on Wednesday, August 16, 2006 - 12:39 pm:   Edit Post Delete Post Print Post    Move Post (Moderator/Admin Only)

You could have removed a screw from the hinge and replaced it with a longer one which would have been 3 less visable.Sounds like you used more than enough.

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