Author |
Message |
   
seidperson
Citizen Username: Seidperson
Post Number: 48 Registered: 4-2002
| Posted on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 10:11 pm: |
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We have two chimneys in our home, one of them is an ancient one that no longer works. The base of it is in our attic. A year ago, I noticed the floorboards around it were damp and that there were tracks of water running down it. We had someone tar the chimney, it didn't work. A roofer guy has come twice, I thought he'd fixed it but tonight I went up to the 3rd floor and saw one of the flooboards was damp again. The water is leaking downward, through the wall, and causing bulging in a 2nd-floor wall beneath the chimney. So, this has to stop. Anyone got any ideas? If I can't find someone to fix it, how can I at least stop water from trickling down to the next floor? Ellen |
   
Dave
Moderator Username: Dave
Post Number: 4836 Registered: 4-1998

| Posted on Wednesday, December 29, 2004 - 10:29 pm: |
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Is the chimney capped? |
   
Bobkat
Supporter Username: Bobk
Post Number: 7126 Registered: 5-2001
| Posted on Thursday, December 30, 2004 - 5:29 am: |
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It sounds like the chimney either isn't flashed or the flashing has deteriorated. Probably the only way to solve the problem on a "permanent" basis is to have this done. |
   
seidperson
Citizen Username: Seidperson
Post Number: 49 Registered: 4-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 30, 2004 - 9:34 am: |
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Hi. Yes, chimney is capped and the first guy to try and fix it had done flashing.... Should I call yet another roofer? Anyone people here would recommend? |
   
weekends
Citizen Username: Weekends
Post Number: 40 Registered: 1-2002
| Posted on Thursday, December 30, 2004 - 2:58 pm: |
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Seidperson, Glad you posted this question. My house has the exact same problem. A roofer told me that the chimney itself is porous, and he suggested painting it with water-proof paint, like DryLock. I can't tell you if it works or not 'cause I haven't done it yet. Does anyone out there think that this sounds plausible?
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wharfrat
Citizen Username: Wharfrat
Post Number: 1481 Registered: 6-2001
| Posted on Thursday, December 30, 2004 - 6:57 pm: |
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Seid and Weekends- The apron, at the top of your chimeny has concrete around your clay vent. In freeze and thaw cycles the seam between the apron and the vent expands and contracts. I'm betting there is a sizeable seam crack that allows moisture to enter and collect. What do I win!? |
   
upondaroof
Citizen Username: Upondaroof
Post Number: 80 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Thursday, December 30, 2004 - 7:02 pm: |
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weekends writes "A roofer told me that the chimney itself is porous, and he suggested painting it with water-proof paint, like DryLock. I can't tell you if it works or not 'cause I haven't done it yet. Does anyone out there think that this sounds plausible?" I wouldn't paint it with DryLock unless the brickwork is already painted. If it's natural brick or stone, usually a coating of Thompson's Waterproofer does the trick. Best to spray it on with a pump sprayer and make sure you use drop cloths to protect the roof, since the overspray and drips will stain. Also a word to the wise about roof / flashing cement. It's great for keeping water out and in. "Smearing up" the flashings with cement can trap moisture and compound problems.
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seidperson
Citizen Username: Seidperson
Post Number: 50 Registered: 4-2002
| Posted on Friday, December 31, 2004 - 9:32 am: |
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Thanks for all the advice! Regarding painting chimney with DryLock, can we paint the part of the chimney that's inside the attic with this stuff? I don't think my husband's game to go up to the roof right now (the chimney is parged, FYI), our main goal is to stop anything from dripping from the exposed chimney/brick on the 3rd floor down the second, and stuff IS dripping because we saw tracks of rivets of water. ALSO, wharfat, how does one deal with a crack between the apron and vent? I thought flashing would have solved this problem, but, noooo.... |
   
upondaroof
Citizen Username: Upondaroof
Post Number: 81 Registered: 4-2003
| Posted on Friday, December 31, 2004 - 4:13 pm: |
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seidperson writes: "Regarding painting chimney with DryLock, can we paint the part of the chimney that's inside the attic with this stuff? I don't think my husband's game to go up to the roof right now". Painting the brickwork inside the attic without treating the exterior, above the roof line, won't solve a thing. The water will still roll down the face of the brick. I don't believe the wash, ("apron" as someone called it) is the cause, unless its completely deteriorated and the flashing would have nothing to do with the wash. Flashing waterproofs the joint where the chimney and roof meet. You state that the chimney is no longer in use, so why not tear it down to the attic floor, cap it off and repair the roof. End of problem. |