| Author | Message | ||
     Ali Eddy Citizen Username: Ciaopescao Post Number: 1 Registered: 1-2006 |
Hello to all - My husband and I are considering buying an old colonial in Maplewood and would like to find out more about the area. I have been doing loads of online research but would like some first hand help...I know there are issues with crime, certain areas to stay away from?...I also would like to know about the neighborhood, its community, etc. Is Maplewood too good to be true? ANY information is appreciated - I would like to know all and any experiences - good/bad. We are planning on rehabbing an old house, commute to the city (how often/where does the jitney stop), is there a "neighborhood" feel to the place, crime stats, recreational activities, etc. No kids (yet) but we are planning on it ASAP. I would also like to know if anyone is rehabbing their home for the first time and their experiences as well? Thanks for any help you can give us! Ali | ||
| Meandtheboys Citizen Username: Meandtheboys Post Number: 2652 Registered: 12-2004  |
Maplewood is NOT too good to be true. Been here 8 years and love it more every day. Great community, physically, emotionally, spiritually. Lots of great cultural events. Lots of great things for kids of all ages. No area that you need to stay away from. Crime is no better or worse than you would find anywhere else. FWIW, I ALWAYS feel safe here, and I'm home alone with my kids quite a few evenings during the week. As for rehabbing an old house, everyone's idea of "rehabbing" is different. We gutted the entire first and third floor of our house, but weren't living in it at the time--and really couldn't have. This was just prior to children. And we were very far from finished when we moved in and our first was born 6 weeks later. It can be an all-consuming endeavor and can occupy most of your free nights and weekends if you're planning to do it yourself. I grew to despise Home Depot--but at least it's close by! | ||
| C Bataille Citizen Username: Nakaille Post Number: 2395 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ali, anything that is highly hyped is by definition too good to be true. However, we have lived in Maplewood for 14 years and we still love it. There are lots of recreational and cultural opportunities here - for example: a WONDERFUL community pool with very reasonable rates, a thriving art & theatre community, etc. The very fact that you can post to this board and get real responses is one indication of what this town is like. The vast majority of homes are older colonials in need of various levels of work. I think the jitney has been a godsend to commuters who are not right near the train station. There are several different routes. The people in this community are very vocal so sometimes people get odd impressions about what is going on. The good news is that most of us vocal folks are very involved in the life of the town and the schools. Our critiquing is a strong indicator of how much we care and that we will work hard to improve our little corner of Eden. Politically it's a fairly progressive town. Economically it's a fairly well-to-do town struggling with the fact that we have little industry, etc to offset the necessary budget items, like good schools, fire and police dept, etc. So you will hear lots of complaints about our taxes, which are in fact high. But a large percentage of us understand that taxes are the reasonable cost of living in a civilized society. | ||
| anon Supporter Username: Anon Post Number: 2504 Registered: 6-2002 |
Ali: I will second (third?) what Meand and and Cathy Bataille said. No where's perfect. This place comes close. Come into Town. Look around. Talk to people. Have lunch or Dinner at one of the local places, like St. James Gate or Village Trattotria (not the really fancy places - those are full of out-of-towners)and start a conversation with other dinners. Try us. I think you will like us. | ||
| mjh Supporter Username: Mjh Post Number: 346 Registered: 5-2001 |
Will add that loads and loads of renovations have been happening in the two towns. We just did a kitchen/powder room/bathroom renovation (our first) and we are delighted with the whole thing. We've used MOL "home fix it" for lots of advice in the renovation/home care arena, and it's been a big help. We love Maplewood. Good luck! The best renovation advice I can offer is to do what you are doing..........talk to people about their experience and get advice from all types. We took well over a year to plan and study and talk..........frustratingly slow, but we really had to take the time to figure it all out before spending that kind of money. Big renovation + young baby would not be a good combination (IMHO). Being a new first-time parent is generally hard enough for most of us, and renovation is a stressful period (unless you can afford to just live elsewhere for the duration). | ||
| ajc Citizen Username: Ajc Post Number: 4689 Registered: 9-2001  |
(not the really fancy places - those are full of out-of-towners) I'm sorry Anon, I need some help from you to understand your comment. I'm not sure I'd categorize the other eating establishments in town as "fancy" places. And, what in the world do you mean by out-of-towners? You're addressing your comment to one... Ali, welcome to MOL. I'm a second generation resident and our family has been here over sixty years. I've seen a lot change and a lot stay the same. For the most part it's ALL been good, especially all the new young families that have brought new life and energy to our community. Buying an old colonial is one of the best investments I can think of in our little area of the world, and any efforts spent rehabbing it will be well worth the money. Yes, there are some concerns about crime, but nothing that’s not being professionally addressed or to be concerned about. And, IMHO, there are NO areas in Maplewood to stay away from? If you’re really serious about moving here, send me an e-mail. I’d love to have you come over for pancakes some morning, and afterwards I’ll show you and your husband around the town if you like... Good luck. Art | ||
| Tom Reingold Supporter Username: Noglider Post Number: 11980 Registered: 1-2003  |
Art, some financial experts say you should buy a home to live in, because it's not a sure thing as an investment. It usually increases in value, but don't bet your whole life on it. Ali, you're asking Maplewoodians if Maplewood is good. We've invested a lot here, so we're likely to say yes. I say yes, and I've been here less than three years. Some have left, for various reasons, but that's also bound to happen, right? Some have been dismayed by crime here. There's more crime here than in some places but also less than in others. How you view it might just depend on where you're coming from. And it's important to note which types of crime are common. We have some theft and vandalism, as does every place else, but I think random violent crime is fairly low, and that's a good thing. Where are you moving from? We're fixing up a Victorian house, which, as far as we can tell, was built in 1888. It's going slowly, but it's mostly rewarding. I have no prior experience with this. I grew up in Manhattan and never lived in a house before. There's a lot to like here. (And by the way, South Orange, which used to be the same town, and which still shares a school district with Maplewood, is almost identical to Maplewood in most criteria, so consider South Orange, too.) The scenery is obviously lovely. There are very neighborly people. Many are very civically active and involved, which is a benefit to everyone. And many people are involved in the arts and other various pursuits, so if you are, too, you'll find lots of like-minded people. There is controversy about our schools, and I think that reflects the fact that we all care greatly about them. I think it's fair to say that most kids are very well served by the schools. | ||
| Shawna Citizen Username: Lucies_mom Post Number: 77 Registered: 10-2005 |
Hi Ali- I just moved to Maplewood and I love it. Since I am newer here, I think I can give a new/different opinion. I still haven't been able to pinpoint the reasons I love it here, but here are some things thoughts that ran through my mind when I first got here. Maplewood seems to be mostly valley. One thing that no one really seems to mention is that most houses don't have a great view (because we're in a valley). However, the streets are nice, clean and lined with lovely old trees. I lived in places where view and a private yard was everything and so when I came out to Maplewood, I searched and searched for a home with a great view. There are some out there, but I've come across even less with a private yard. I guess that's part of why Maplewood is so friendly. When one peeks out the window.. there are all the neighbors! | ||
| juju's petals Citizen Username: Jujus_petals Post Number: 217 Registered: 5-2003  |
Yes, in Maplewood being neighborly is something of a requirement. Many of us, even the not so nosy ones, keep tabs on our neighbors because we can't really help it. From my stairway window I can nearly always see what my neighbors are watching on TV in their living room! At the same time, we want to give each other the illusion of privacy as part of the golden rule. And I really don't want to know what anyone thinks of my bedhead, clogs and pajamas ensemble while I watch my kids play in the backyard on weekend mornings. This is not the right town if you are looking forward to being a shut-in or want to conduct some kind of clandestine home-based operation. Even if something unusual did happen next door or down the block, your Maplewood neighbors would probably not be the ones on the local news saying "I had no idea . . ." | ||
| Joan Supporter Username: Joancrystal Post Number: 6925 Registered: 5-2001 |
Ali: Recently, the New York Times had a fascinating article about families leaving the City for the suburbs only to return to the City just a few months later when they discovered the suburbs just weren't for them. The people who have responded to your post live here and enjoy it very much. After doing their research, they decided Maplewood was the place for them. After moving here they made the decision to stay. Only you can decide whether Maplewood is right for you. Come on out. Walk our streets. Visit our commercial districts. Explore our neighborhoods. Spend some time in our parks. Take in a show or other cultural event (Check the community calendar on this website for activities and dates). Attend a religious service at the place of worship of your choice. Talk to the residents you meet. Check out the train schedule and the jitney routes for an idea of which neighborhoods would work best for you. Read our local newspaper and this message board for an indication of current topics of interest/concern to our residents. Good luck. I hope you make the decision which is best for you. | ||
| Ali Eddy Citizen Username: Ciaopescao Post Number: 2 Registered: 1-2006 |
Joan- LOL! We were reading that article on the train out to Maplewood!!! It came out the same day we decided to check out our first "suburb!" Thanks to all of you, this has been very helpful! | ||
| mjc Citizen Username: Mjc Post Number: 1015 Registered: 10-2004 |
Ali, like you and Joan, I read the Times article about people going back to NYC. It seemed to me that they had chosen what I think of as "no-sidewalk" suburbs, that is, their neighbors were not nearby and they pretty much had to drive a distance to do anything, so they wound up feeling isolated. As you see above, Maplewood and South Orange are not so much like that, presumably because they're older and were built mainly to serve train commuters. Someone could correct me, but I don't see how anyone with kids could wind up feeling isolated in M/SO. Without kids, you may need to reach out a little (community calendar on this website could be a good place to start), but before you know it you'll be running into people you know every time you go into town. Come on out, have a look around, enjoy! | ||
| Tom Reingold Supporter Username: Noglider Post Number: 11988 Registered: 1-2003 |
We had many criteria for choosing the town we lived in. Sidewalks were one of the must-haves for us. | ||
| spol Citizen Username: Spol Post Number: 10 Registered: 10-2005 |
Ali, I moved to Maplewood less than two months ago from Jersey City. I've had nothing but wonderful experiences since I moved here. I've had a blast getting to know my new town and neighborhood, eating at St. James Gate and wandering through the Village. I can't say enough good things about this town - when I think of Maplewood, I think of the epitome of a small, close-knit community. So if that's what you're looking for, you'll certainly find it here! | ||
| Joan Supporter Username: Joancrystal Post Number: 6926 Registered: 5-2001 |
Several of the towns mentioned in the NYT article, such as Montclair and West Orange have sidewalks and lack of sidewalks was not an issue addressed in the article. The major factors those interviewed sited for running back to the City were: markedly different lifestyle, slower pace, lack of contact with neighbors, difficulty in becoming part of the community. While Maplewood was not mentioned in the article as a place any of the couples interviewed fled from, possibly with good reason, some of the problems mentioned in the article could apply to a newcomer to Maplewood. The pace is slower here than in the City, there can be as much as an hour wait between trains, even during rush hour, people without children can have a more difficult time becoming part of the community since so many activities in our town are child-centered, stay at home Moms may find few children in the playgrounds, especially on weekdays given the large number of children in day care and the preference many families have for using their yards rather than public parks for these activities. | ||
| Meandtheboys Citizen Username: Meandtheboys Post Number: 2695 Registered: 12-2004 |
I spend some time at the playgrounds on weekdays--weather permitting--and there is usually always someone else there. Sometimes it's one person, sometimes it a dozen. And for the most part everyone is very nice and I don't usually have trouble striking up a conversation with someone, in spite of the fact that I have a tendency to be a bit "shy" (such a stupid word to use to apply to a 44-year-old woman, but I don't know what other word there is)! There are lots of SAHM's and some SAHD's around. There are also plenty of groups and activities that cater to young children and their parents. The experience those folks in the article had at the playgrounds where ever it was they lived, is not an experience I've ever had here! | ||
| Jersey Boy Citizen Username: Jersey_boy Post Number: 20 Registered: 1-2006 |
South Orange is better.  | ||
| anon Supporter Username: Anon Post Number: 2505 Registered: 6-2002 |
Ajc: I was thinking of Jocelyn's or whatever it is called now, and American Fare or whatever that is called now. | ||
| ajc Citizen Username: Ajc Post Number: 4693 Registered: 9-2001 |
...I was thinking of...what? Anon, I still don't understand your comment, or what you were thinking of. Why do you categorize the other eating establishments in town as "fancy" places? And, what's up with your problem with out-of-towners? Listen, I'm pressing you a little on this issue because, IMHO, your comment puts a negative spin on a few of our restaurant. I hope if we can discuss this, maybe we can avoid doing again in the future. I don't believe this was your intention, and I'm not even sure anyone else agrees with me on this one. Each of the restaurants you mentioned, and the few others you didn't, all offer a casual dress code, great food, and comparatively moderate pricing. And, why you think they are "full" of out of towners? I think I know what you meant, but I'd rather hear it from you and not guess... | ||
| Meandtheboys Citizen Username: Meandtheboys Post Number: 2696 Registered: 12-2004 |
I agree with you ajc. Perhaps anon was just joking? Whatever, I enjoy both those places and I don't consider them particularly fancy nor am I from out of town. And I'll add Cent'anni to the list of nice, non-"fancy", places I enjoy. Great music and yummy food. In fact, we planning dinner there on Saturday night with friends, for one of our rare "date nights." | ||
| Megan Citizen Username: Megan Post Number: 85 Registered: 8-2003 |
Ali, I wanted to address the neighborhood issue. Don't be dissuaded because of nearby cities. I moved from a home in the middle of town to a section that borders Irvington and Newark. (I just couldn't leave Maplewood!) My real estate agent was very enthusiastic about the neighborhood--with good reason. My neighbors are wonderful. If I accidentally leave a car door open or a car light on, I get a knock on my door. Sometimes I worry about crime but no more than in the old house. Good luck! | ||
| Jennifer Pickett Citizen Username: Jpickett Post Number: 136 Registered: 4-2005 |
Maplewood/South Orange Newcomers club has plenty to offer to help new residents (with and without kids) find friends, learn about the town, and more. Check out www.somnewcomers.com. We are renovating our home for the first time, without the help of a general contractor, doing as much as we can ourselves. It takes a lot more time than I thought, so when choosing a home, realize that work on a home takes twice the time and twice the money that you might guess, and you will need more help than you think. I'm very glad now that we skipped on homes that needed major reno (adding a bathroom, moving walls, etc.), that definitely would have been too much for us. That said, it is really fun to replace (yourself or hire a pro) floors, ceilings, walls, counters, fixtures, etc., and in general learn about your house. The Home Fix-it board on MOL is my favorite resource. | ||
| anon Supporter Username: Anon Post Number: 2506 Registered: 6-2002 |
I really don't know what the big deal is. The places to which I was referring are certainly more expensive than Village Trattoria or St. James Gate. I don't consider "fancy" to have negative connotations. I just figured if folks wanting info on moving to Maplewood wanted to strike up conversations with locals out for the evening with their kids, etc., they would be better off with the more casual places. That's all. | ||
| Joan Supporter Username: Joancrystal Post Number: 6936 Registered: 5-2001 |
More casual equals more kid-friendly? | ||
| ajc Citizen Username: Ajc Post Number: 4700 Registered: 9-2001 |
Anon, it's not really a big deal, but I thought I'd send you a private line anyway just to clear the air and take you off the hook. That's all... | ||
| anon Supporter Username: Anon Post Number: 2516 Registered: 6-2002 |
Thanks, but for the life of me I can't remember how to access the e-mail account I had when I first registered with MOL. Maybe it's because I was out to dinner tonight and had too much of the fermented juice of the grape!  | ||
| ajc Citizen Username: Ajc Post Number: 4705 Registered: 9-2001 |
Anon... speaking of going out, a few of us went to the Fore Seasons Restaurant in Short Hills for dinner and some dancing last night. One of Libby's hair stylists, Susan Shaw, is also a wonderful musician and was playing there with her guitar player. Hey, forget about the fermented juice of the grape, if I had had a second Stinger I would not only forget my e-mail address, I probably wouldn't be able to find my computer...  BTW, I'll need to see if we can get Susan to do a few gigs here in Maplewood Village some evenings, she has a nice mix of music and has a really great voice... | ||
| Lester Jacobs Citizen Username: Lester Post Number: 76 Registered: 10-2005 |
Most of the town is very nice, but you need to be aware of a few parts to stay away from. The other side of Springfield Ave is a war-zone - there is no differentiation from Irvington. Same goes for the part east of Boyden Ave. Also if you have kids you may want to avoid the Clinton district. I would also avoid South Orange. It doesn't have as good a name as Maplewood which could hurt you when it comes time to sell, and clearly if you look at all the boarded up storefronts downtown it's best days are behind it. | ||
| Jersey Boy Citizen Username: Jersey_boy Post Number: 29 Registered: 1-2006 |
Hey...  | ||
| ajc Citizen Username: Ajc Post Number: 4708 Registered: 9-2001 |
Lester, not for nothing, but you need to take off those rose colored glasses pal... When you say the best days are behind it, you must be new to the area. How long have you been around here and what part of town do you come from? | ||
| Lizziecat Citizen Username: Lizziecat Post Number: 1033 Registered: 5-2003 |
Know what, Lester? Your remarks are so scurrilous and so irresponsible, and so potentially detrimental to the real estate values of all us who live here, raise our children, and are happy here, that someone might be tempted to sue you for damages. Why don't you move your negative attitude out of our area? | ||
| AlleyGater Citizen Username: Alleygater Post Number: 1106 Registered: 10-2004 |
Ummm guys, put your "sense of humor glasses" on. I am feeling pretty confident that Lester was kidding. | ||
| Rivka Nelson Citizen Username: Rivka_nelson Post Number: 17 Registered: 11-2004 |
I happen to live in the Clinton District and have have currently a third grader at Clinton, and two who have gone through Clinton and are currently in Middle School. What are you talking about avoiding the Clinton District? Clinton is a wonderful school. My children have had the best education there, preparing them for successful years in the middle school and beyond. That old canard about Clinton School needs to die out. There are many parents on MOL who have had or have children at Clinton who can also testify about how wonderful the school is. There is a very active PTA, a wonderful teaching staff (the lowest teacher turn over in the district), and new and energetic principal and students from all over the world. What could be better? The school is warm and nurturing and very diverse. It is the prototype of what a Maplewood school should be. | ||
| Pamela Citizen Username: Pamela Post Number: 20 Registered: 7-2004 |
Ali, As you can read, this is a great place because you've got all kinds of people here with all sorts of opinions. We just passed 10 years here & have just finished renovations ourselves. I suppose we'll have to move though since according to Lester, the Clinton district should be avoided & we live a block from the school. Oh well, if we stay, I guess our daughter will end up at Penn rather than Harvard which is good since my husband & I are both Penn grads | ||
| ceceliac Citizen Username: Ceceliac Post Number: 83 Registered: 3-2002 |
I, too, must chime in about Lester's unfair comment. We live a block from Clinton and love the neighborhood and the school. We've been in Maplewood for 3 years and our oldest child has been at Clinton for 2 and I could not be happier. The neighborhood is great and the Clinton teaching staff, administration, and students/parents are awesome. | ||
| BGS Citizen Username: Bgs Post Number: 551 Registered: 10-2003 |
I suspect, judging from this one and past posts by Lester that he/she is just a sad sack who really never has much positive to add to a conversation/thread. Ali, this is a wonderful town as is South Orange. Your children will do well in any school district in our towns...the teachers are all great... Every area of the town has good and bad points...you have to go where you feel good. Hope you have a wonderful life what ever you decide to do!! | ||
| SO1969 Citizen Username: Bklyn1969 Post Number: 191 Registered: 7-2004 |
If Lester is joking, he's got a strange sense of humor. I moved to SO in the last two years. I live in the Clinton SD. I've enjoyed meeting all of the neighbors I've met to date - interesting, committed, accomplished people. I walk home from the train station at all hours of the night, I feel perfectly safe. I don't have school age children, but suggest, if interested, you read many posts in the Education section on the Clinton school. One advantage of this neighborhood is we're fairly close to both villages. We enjoy the proximity to the businesses and restaurants in both SO and MW. With regard to re-development in SO, I'm one of many who is anxious for some of the stalled projects to get moving, but saying SO's best days are behind it (implying it is heading the wrong direction), is way off the mark. The trajectory is upward, the question is when and what it will look like. Both long-time residents and a large influx of newcomers are very committed to SO's redevelopment. Sloan Street is a good example of what can be done when the local business community, other volunteers and the local government work together. SO, due to the layout and current uses of its downtown space, has tremendous potential for continued revival. The noise you see in SO threads is from concerned citizens that want to make sure the huge opportunity is maximized for the long-term benefit of all villagers without being detrimental to our current quality of life. Good luck in your choices. | ||
| Lester Jacobs Citizen Username: Lester Post Number: 77 Registered: 10-2005 |
I was just giving Ali some advice that I thought was honest and objective. Look at some of the real estate ads out there. Many will say "in the sought after Tuscan district". Ever see one that says "in the sought after Clinton district"? Concerning South Orange there are some beautiful neighborhoods, but the downtown is run-down, and in the 6 years I have been here appears to have gotten worse. I'm not sure if all of these public works projects can really help. Also most people in New Jersey associate the word "orange" in a town name with either Orange or East Orange. Have you noticed that the ads for those new houses in South Orange that run in the NYT do not mention that they are actually in South Orange? Maplewood has a much better name, and a much nicer downtown where they don't have to beg developers and businesses to set-up shop. You might be able to get more house for the money in South Orange vs. Maplewood, but then again you get what you pay for. | ||
| Jersey Boy Citizen Username: Jersey_boy Post Number: 43 Registered: 1-2006  |
Okay, I'll agree with Lester on this post. We looked at Maplewood and South Orange and we got way more house in S.O. for the same money. Given, it needs work, and it's closer to Newark and the "other" Oranges, but what we got is a great neighborhood that's racially diverse, but also socio-economically diverse. This past Halloween was our first here, and cars were parking up and down our street to trick-or-treat in our neighborhood. I assumed these were kids from outside of South Orange. (Some moms were still in scrubs from working late at the hospital or whereever-- the V.A. is close). The kids were POLITE. I could hear parents admonishing them about not walking inside until they were invited in (they were.) and a lot of them spontaneously said, "Wow, this is a nice house." The biggest danger of raising your kids in the 'burbs is they get insulated from real diversity -- not just Black and White, but have and have-not. I want my children to appreciate what I work hard to give them, but to know what else there is. I think this first hand knowledge of all people creates a better citizen. It's somewhat automatic in NYC, but if you move to Short Hills, don't say I didn't warn you when your kids say unspeakably snobby stuff that they heard at school. That's why I love where I am in South Orange. Because it's on the border of some towns that are rough. You want the truth? That's it. Mr. Jacobs, what do you have to say about that? | ||
| mjh Supporter Username: Mjh Post Number: 351 Registered: 5-2001 |
We live 1/2 block from Clinton School, where our son is in the 4th grade. We bought our house for $195 in late 1998, our next door neighbors bought for a similar price. They sold their house in August for $595 (they had to move to Chicago for family reasons). The neighbors across the street sold for $600 (they fell in love with a house in Montrose). I think the Clinton area is doing quite well. We've been overall happy with the school too, and we agree wholeheartedly with Jersey Boy (nice post JB). |
